Since moving to the Lowcountry nine years ago, I have been made abundantly aware of the fact that the retirees here love to travel. As a matter of fact, I am right in there with them. Every once in a while I am overcome with wanderlust and before I know it, I'm on my way to the airport.
Every once in a while I like to recall the story of the Judgment of Wines that took place in Paris in 1976. Using a phrase that is popular today, it was a very real "game changer." It is the story of two wines that were entered into a formal wine tasting by Steven Spurrier, a transplanted Englishman, who just happened to be a believer in the quality of California wines. TIME magazine reported on the event in their June 7,1976.
Here is what TIME had to say:
"Americans abroad have been boasting for years about California wines, only to be greeted by polite disbelief - or worse. Among the few fervent and respected admirers of Le vin de California in France is a transplanted Englishman named Steven Spurrier, who owns the Cave de la Madeleine wine shop, one of the best in Paris, and the Academie du Vin, a wine school whose six week courses are attended by the French Restaurant Associationâs chefs and sommeliers. Last week in Paris, at a formal wine tasting arranged by Spurrier, the unthinkable happened: California defeated all Gaul.
"The contest was as strictly controlled as the production of a Chateau Lafite. The nine French judges, drawn from an oenophileâs WHOâS WHO, included such high priests as Pierre Tari, Secretary General of the ASSOCIATION des GRAND CRUS CLASSES, and Raymond Oliver, owner of Le Grand Vefour Restaurant and doyen of French culinary writers. The wines tasted were transatlantic cousins - four white Burgundies against six California Pinot Chardonnays and four Grands crus Chateaux reds rom Bordeaux against six California Cabernet Sauvignons.
"As the judges swirled, sniffed, sipped and spat, some judges were instantly able to separate an imported upstart from an aristocrat. More often, the panel was confused. 'Ah, back to France!' exclaimed Oliver after sipping a 1972 Chardonnay from the Napa Valley. 'That is definitely California. It has no nose,' said another judge - after downing a 1973 Batard Montrachet. Other comments included such Gallic gems as 'this is nervous and agreeable,' 'a good nose but not to much in the mouth,' and 'this soars out of the ordinary.'
"When the ballots were cast, the top-soaring red was the 1972 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, from the Napa Valley and produced by Warren Winiarski. This was followed by the 1970 Mouton Rothchild, the 1970 Haut-Brion, and the 1970 Montrose. The four winning whites were, in order, the 1973 Chateau Montelena from Napa, the 1973 French Meursault-Charmes, and two mother Californias, the 1974 Chalone from Monterey County and Napa Valley's 1973 Spring Mountain. The United States winners are little known to wine lovers, since they are in short supply even in California and rather expensive ($6 plus. Remember that this is a 1976 price. Much more in 2017) Jim Barrett, Motelena's general Manager and part owner, said 'Not bad for kids from the Sticks.'"
When Spurrier was organizing the wine tasting he remembered to invite the press. The only reporter to attend was George W. Taber from TIME Magazine. After he published the results of the tasting, an unprecedented explosion took place in the world of wine. The game changer was one simple tasting, arranged by Spurrier and carried out by highly qualified judges. The French were embarrassed and they tried to offer as many excuses as they could think of. But it was too late. The results were published for all the world to see. Overnight the wine industry in the US was changed forever and for the better. The American wines that had been entered in the Paris tasting were officially recognized and credible.
A very important point to remember here is that the Paris Tasting was repeated several more times over a ten year period. The results were always the same or close to it. Spurrier never gave up with the confidence that he had in the California wines. The results of the tastings are published online for all to see.
WINESPEAK
Two items: first a movie and second a new wine region. The movie is called BOTTLE SHOCK. It's well done and portrays the Paris Tasting accurately. The movie was released in 2016 to celebrate the thirtieth anniversary of the Paris tasting. It was produced by the Sundance Film Festival. It should be easily obtainable.
Our second item also took place in 1976, which was a breakout year for Oregon Pinot Noir. I classify this as an amazing coincidence with what took place in Paris. Just as Steve Spurrier had confidence in his two American selections, so also did Dick Erath have confidence in his selection of Oregon as a place to grow Pinot Noir. He was convinced that the soil and climate of the Dundee Area were perfect for growing Pinot Noir grapes. He was also convinced that the close proximity to the Pacific Ocean would help to moderate the temperatures during the growing season. And the ocean effect helped to keep the temperatures warmer in the winter, which in turn kept the vines from freezing.
Dick was a pioneer and many others followed. He was granted a license to build a winery in 1976, and the rest is history. His winery flourishes today along with many others producing quality Pinot Noir.
I can only say that I wish I'd had a crystal ball in 1976.
Discovering Kenwood Vineyards
Written by Terry Connor
Tuesday, 11 July 2017 13:43
I sincerely hope that everyone had a safe and enjoyable Fourth of July. I had a safe holiday because I stayed at home and experienced a new wine that I discovered from Kenwood Vineyards. It is called Six Ridges and was released to the market about 18 months ago.
Summertime is fast approaching and with it comes the summer barbecue season. Grilling on the patio with good food and good friends is very close to the top of my list for summertime relaxation. (I wrote this column two years ago. However this year I wanted to update it to include my shopping trip to some fish stores. All in the interest of research. I am sure that you understand.)
Letâs start with Pork. Fortunately for us pork rescued itself from the WWII image of âtougher than combat boots.â It is now a welcome item on restaurant menus and momâs shopping list. It can be purchased pulled, roasted, smoked, barbecued and probably prepared many other ways that a butcher can dream up. Long considered a white meat only, it is now included in the red meat category and this makes it a perfect candidate for a myriad of wine selections to serve at a patio party. Here I suggest not spending a boatload of money on expensive wine. Select a Pinot Noir or a Malbec for around $15. Although white meat calls for a white wine, the cooking method of the pork can call for a red wine. If a white wine is mandatory because of personal taste, select a Fume Blanc from Robert Mondavi. Fume Blanc is a variation of Sauvignon Blanc and was first introduced by Robert Mondavi in 1968.This is a wine that will give off a gentle smoky flavor.
Roasted red meats are the next choice for our outdoor party. Linda Johnson-Bell, in her book on food matching says it best: Grilled or roasted meats are not difficult to match. Think Sunday roast and July barbecues; think full, ripe and mature wines such as Pomerol, New World Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrahs, Cornas, Hermitage, Chateauneuf du Pape, St Emilion and Zinfandel. Both the red meats and the methods of grilling can take heavier textures and weights, so bring on the tannins and acids and plenty of red wine with ripe fruit. No fresh young things allowed here. Ms. Bell is correct and I agree with her. All of the wines mentioned above are full bodied. However, notice from where they originate; Bordeaux, the US, The Rhone, and Australia. You could easily add a rich red from Rioja or a Super Tuscan.
There are so many red meats to select for a barbecue. My own personal favorite is a Filet Mignon⦠no bone, no waste, no fat. With the filet I would choose a Napa Merlot; perhaps a Duckhorn. The Filet is subtle in flavor, so I would go for a wine that will not overwhelm the meat and, at the same time, will go well with grilled vegetables.
Ribs are next. Ribs are very popular here in the Lowcountry and are readily available year round. Whether you enjoy your ribs with a dry rub or a rub that is moist, try to find a Shiraz from Australia. In my opinion, Australian Shiraz was born to accompany barbecued ribs. You will find that the wine reveals firm tannins and concentrated black fruit that will stand up to the meatiest of ribs.
Letâs try fish next. This is where I went shopping. I did this because the retail fish scene has changed considerably here in Beaufort. Sea Eagle Market has moved across the street from their original location, Walmart has opened a new store on Ladyâs Island, and the big surprise was to find out that Gayâs Fish Store NEVER closed. I was convinced that the Hurricane had done him In. No way! He is busier than ever. Allow me to list the fish and add in comments as necessary to match the wine.
SHRIMP: All locations carry shrimp. Pick any white wine, though Sauvignon Blanc is my first choice.
SCALLOPS: All locations carry Scallops. My first choice for a wine match is Pouilly-Fuisse.
CLAMS: I suggest you call ahead. Match with a well chilled Chablis or Pinot Grigio.
GROUPER: Could not find anywhere.
HALIBUT: Could not find. Special Order only! I would match with a single vineyard Chardonnay.
OYSTERS: Plentiful in season. Match with a Chablis, A Muscadet, or a Sparkler. I should mention that the Muscadet may be one the sweet side. Look for a DRY Muscadet.
SALMON: Go red or white. Try Pinot Noir, Burgundy, Chardonnay or a dry Riesling.
I was surprised to find that Sea Eagle carries Swordfish. I gotta get out more often. $14 a pound. All you need is a grill, some butter, a hot fire and a bottle of Chardonnay, a Sauvignon Blanc or your favorite Sparkler.
Do not be bashful about bringing a sparkling wine to the backyard bash. A good sparkling wine is a nice touch, indeed. It can be a sparkling red or white or a Prosecco.
WINESPEAK. Is our list of meats, fish and wine complete for the barbecue? Not even close, but itâs something you can refer to quickly. We live in an area where outside barbecues can be held many months of the year. Use the list as a guide and feel free to experiment with menus and wine selections. Your backyard adventure is limited only by your imagination.
Have fun!   Â
From Potatoes To Terrific Wines
Written by Terry Connor
Monday, 29 May 2017 01:27
I thought that I had a good plan: to visit some wineries, meet some of the folks, taste the wine, make some notes and move on. The plan would have worked if I had worn blinders, been rude, not listened to the very polite and informative winery personnel, tasted the wine and gone on my way. I realized early on that I had better alter my thinking and do it the Long Island way. I must say that it was a very good decision on my part, as each winery had a unique story to tell.