The above title belongs to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher. When they used it, I think they really hit the nail on the head. It comes from a column written for the Wall Street Journal in 2009, in which the writers develop some thoughts on glasses used for wine. For the most part, it's a discussion of everyday vs. formal, jelly glasses vs. Waterford.

I agree with Dorothy and John, but would like to put in my own two cents. In this scenario, I equate drinking wine with eating. We must eat in order to live. To keep our interest in eating at peak, we go to great lengths to be creative with recipes and/or restaurant selections. It follows then – in my scenario – that we do the same with drinking. We must have some sort of vessel to contain our beverage. We select a glass from the Dollar Store (.98 cents) or we can go all the way up and select a glass from an artisanal glass blower. Some would argue that it makes no difference, that glass is glass. That may be so; however, we must consider the everyday setting vs. the formal setting.
Let's try to sort this out by starting at the beginning. Yes. Glass is glass. It is composed of sand, soda ash and limestone melted down to form sheet or shapes. Moving right along to our arena we find that The International Standards Organization (The ISO) has a specification for a wine tasting glass. It consists of a cup shape blown in the form of an elongated egg, supported on a stem, and resting on a base. The opening is narrower than the convex part so as to concentrate the bouquet of the wine. The capacity of the glass is approximately 215 ml and the pour for tasting should be 50 ml.
Now let's take a look at just two basic shapes – a glass for red and a glass for white. Red wine glasses are characterized by their wider bowl, which increases the rate of oxidation. As oxygen from the air chemically interacts with the wine, flavor and aroma are subtly altered. With the glass for the white wine we notice a "u" shape to the bowl. This allows the aromas to be released and, at the same time, helps the wine maintain a cooler temperature.

I would be remiss if I failed to mention the Champagne Flute. We are all familiar with the shape of the glass. Two points to remember about the bowl: the first, that it is designed to maintain the effervescence; and the second, that it's about offering a view of the bubbles as they travel to the top. (I will wager that somewhere there is a millionaire who thought up that idea. Just imagine the number of flute designs that exist.)

Since I have been studying wine on and off for 50 years, I would have to say that I have been studying glassware and barware for an even longer time. Something clicked one Saturday afternoon, a long time ago, when I was shown a set of wine glasses. I knew that the glasses were expensive, but I wasn't sure how expensive. The woman who owned the glasses asked me to guess the price of the set. I came within a few cents of being correct. ($6.95 each for the goblets at 1959 prices, which translates to $75/$85 today.) From then on I was "hooked," and I always enjoyed shopping for glassware, whether for purchase or just browsing.

I have always held the opinion that collecting and studying wine goes hand in hand with collecting and studying good glassware. When I was a starving Second Lieutenant just out of college, I jumped from jelly glasses to selections from Crate & Barrel. That was good enough until I visited the Waterford Factory in Ireland. Hooked, again? Yes. But what was I doing? I was no longer just buying glassware. I was investing in high quality stemware that enhanced my wine drinking experience. I have since moved on from Waterford. I now shop at Simon Pearce in Vermont and Boston.

WINESPEAK
Or should I say, in this case, GLASSSPEAK? Glass is an inert material. That being the case, it will not alter the taste of the wine. What good quality glassware does for me is to complete each wine drinking event. I will now share a secret. My own Mother did the same thing. During the depression, her one treat was to purchase, one glass at a time, a complete service for eight of Water, Wine, Champagne, and Cocktail Glasses. It took forever and her patience paid off. I still have those glasses . . . 83 years later. Glass styles may have changed. Thankfully the idea of collecting has not.

I was, by necessity, on the hunt for a bargain. That is what you do when cash is low. I found myself in Marty's Liquor and Wine store in West Newton, Ma. I was under strict orders to bring home a bottle of wine for supper. Failure was not an option; it would require me to do the dishes for at least a millennium. Not relishing this prospect, I humbly asked Marty for his assistance. Without hesitation, we went to the wine department and selected a 1991 Lirac. I brought the wine home and . . . success! No dishes.

At that time, Lirac wine was a new experience for me. I enjoyed the wine and realized that I wanted to know more about it. The wine carried ripe red and dark berries on the nose. On the palate were terrific black raspberry and cherry flavors. (I also enjoyed the price. At that time it was around $11.) I went to Robert Parker's Book called Wines of the Rhone Valley, first published in 1987. At that time Mr. Parker was giving Lirac wines a "mediocre to good, but improving" rating. Fast forward to 2013, I find that Lirac wine has improved. I also discovered that Lirac wines are from the Southern Rhone; or more precisely, from a wine-growing Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC) situated in the low hills along the right bank of the Rhone River in the Southern Rhone wine region of France. I pinpoint the location because it is important to remember that Lirac is located directly across the Rhone River from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Thus there is a positive soil and climate influence on what is grown in Lirac. This positive influence is well-drained gravel and the familiar stoned-studded soil that we also see in Chateauneuf-du-pape. The stones retain the heat from the day and slowly release the heat to the soil at night.

Grape varietals grown in the village of Lirac (for the red and rose wines) are Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Carignan. The white wines are produced from Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc varietals. The style of red lirac often resembles a soft Cotes du Rhone-Village. But some winemakers reach somewhat higher and try to imitate a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This is an important point to remember since it is a reminder of how close Lirac is to Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Lirac wines have been produced in the region since pre-Roman times. Evidently the wine has some staying power – and universal appeal – since it was consumed by all classes, from royalty to peasant. Today, growers in the area number approximately 100. However, one winery does stand out. It is Domaine de la Mordoree. In 1986, the management at the Domaine made a business decision to sell all outside interests of any kind and to concentrate solely on the winery. With clear goals in mind for both the quality of the wine and the environment, the Domaine developed 60 Hectares throughout 38 different plots of land. The parcelling of land provided the Domaine with a rich, wide range of soils and microclimates. The winery personnel also have a passion for a bird called the Woodcock. The "poetical" name for the woodcock is La Mordoree. The Woodcock appears on the label.

WINESPEAK
Lirac is in an ideal destination for anyone travelling to the Rhone. In addition to exploring any opportunity for the many wines that are available, there is also access to the Mediterranean climate and beauty, which are favorable to tourism. The whole environment appeals to discovering the cultural centers of Avignon, Arles, Nimes, The Pont du Gard, and the Luberon. It is 'location, location, location' at its best, as there are multiple opportunities for one-day trips. It is as easy as reserving a B&B, renting a car, and go for it. I did it in 1997 and the memories are still alive.

I am told that summer only lasts 93 days. That is really not enough time to enjoy the many delightful white wines available to us here in the Lowcountry. However, if we pick up the pace, maybe we can enjoy a few extra treats, either as an aperitif or with a nice barbecue before the deadline.